"I'm pretty sure that's a sink plunger, not a toilet plunger. Does that ruin the joke? https://www.core77.com/posts/27045/When-Designers-Dont-Understand-What-Theyre-Designing-For-a-Really-Stupid-Way-to-Clear-Toilet-Clogs-and-the-Design-Differences-Between-Plungers"

"I carried sheet goods on the roof of my previous wagon--an E Mercedes. The Mercedes worked because the cross bars were pretty far apart, about 42", if I remember correctly. My current Audi Allroad is smaller, and the cross bars much closer together, so mostly I have sheet goods delivered now. (Still put boards on the roof, though.) Here are some rules I follow:1) I never put just 1 or 2 sheets of 1/4" material on the roof alone. I always make sure to get at least 1 sheet of 3/4" material as well. Then I use 2 small C clamps to clamp all the sheets together at the front edge to keep them from peeling apart. Sandwiching thinner materials between thicker materials is best.2) My cross bars have a rectangular section and are 50" wide. So I use four 6" F clamps to hold the plywood to the roof rack, one at each end of the cross bar. I have used clamps to hold lumber to roof racks for about 15 years, and never had even a hint of a mishap. I've never seen anyone else do it, so I guess this is either my greatest or worst idea of all time. 3) I avoid highways and keep to 40mph or less."

"Aaah, I understand what you mean better now. Quickly moving the router to correct for errors means having to drive the cutter through solid material very very quickly. (Also, potentially complicating your positioning by moving from a conventional cut to a climb cut.) That is a legitimate concern. I'm anticipating that the tool will require practice and good technique to get consistent, quality results. For starters, I wonder if trying to keep path errors to the "good" side of the line might help with keeping away from climb cutting. There will be more to discover--but I guess I'm willing to be a Guinea pig here."

"I agree about the cutting capacity concern, though I'd be a bit more optimistic. (I regularly plow through 3/4" with a trim router and 1/4" bit in one pass.) One problem with routers in general is the amount of travel up and down needed to adjust a limited set of bit lengths to the task at hand--that problem would be exacerbated if this tool has reduced adjustment room. I disagree about the finger joints. If you look at the jig they've setup, it's very smart. One clamp setup, and the dominoes are on the jig, so there's no need to put them on the workpiece. This setup (or one very very similar at least) could also be used to do dove tail joints, in the way that commercial jigs do them-- except with out all the fussy adjusting of fingers and bit depth. (Also, that's one more fixture you don't have to buy or store.) The potential to replace multiple jigs, both shopmade and commercial, is extremely appealing."

"I'm in. Here's what I find appealing: 1) It's an easy extension of my already-Illustrator-based workflow. 2) Yes, it is expensive, but it fits in my shop, which does not have room for even a 24" x 48" full gantry CNC setup. 3) It looks fast, as in fast from drawing to cutting. Is it as accurate as a full-size-and-dialed-in CNC setup? Is an iPhone as good as a full DSLR setup? No (I'm guessing in the case of the shaper origin.) BUT it is probably accurate enough for 95% percent of the work most people want. 4) It's small footprint will encourage experimentation, which is very exciting. A full size CNC gantry machine can easily be $15,000, plus dust control, computers, etc. It's not a machine that would be readily available for experimentation for most people. I doubt I've convinced anyone, but feel free to use my referral code to save $100 on the pre-order price. https://preorder.shapertools.com/ref/UPL3CMPK5"